These notes on the history of our costumes   are based on books, documents, paintings or   simply on clothes found in chests and marke
                                                                            For those of us who are interested in   Mallorcan costumes, we have to bear in  mind that people didn’t follow strict dress codes. Going back to the 18^th century, we can see that the fashion of the moment was followed, but it’s true that this wasn’t followed as a strict uniform, but was adapted to the   materials that each person disposed of,   depending on their status, profession,  spending power or social class.

    As a general rule, Mallorcan women did their hair with a centre parting, combed
away from the face, and tied in a long plat with a black or coloured ribbon in a bow.

   We have to differentiate between ‘peasant’ and ‘noble’ attire.

   The head was covered with a sort of cotton shawl, or a scarf tied at the neck.

   The ‘corpiño’ or ‘gipo’ (a sort of jacket) was low cut and closely fitted, with three quarter sleeves to just below the elbow. It was black in colour (although other colours could be used), and fastened down the front. Fabrics used werewool, cotton etc. Instead of the ‘gipo’ a long sleeved shirt was also worn.

    False sleeves called ‘manegot’, were used for work, covered the forearm, and were made of cotton, linen and ‘indiana’.

     Underwear like bloomers, skirts and underskirts were normally made of cotton or linen. Underskirts were worn directly over the shirt, and more than one could be used. In winter, various coloured skirts were worn over the underskirt, usually made the same way as the underskirt, and tied around the waist with a tape.

 The peasant skirt was made of cotton, in a plain colour or with stripes. As looms only made fabrics of 70 or 80 cm width, an extra piece of material was added to lengthen the skirt. We should tale into account that countrywomen used fabrics that they had to hand to make their clothes.

    On top of the main skirt, a wide, striped, protective pinafore was worn, that could be made of cotton, wool or thicker cotton material.

    White or coloured long socks were worn to protect from the cold, these were hand made. They were held up with a tied tape, and we think that they weren’t worn in summer.

   The shoes were usually made from kid leather and black leather. To work, shoes weren’t worn.

    A straw hat covered the head to work in the fields. 

   The headscarf was made of lace, tulle or silk, which could be embroidered or plain. It had a bell shape that finished in a point or rounded at the chest. In the case of mourning, a smaller black headscarf was placed on top of this white one.

   Ladies used ‘small capes’ which were worn on the head and were made of luxurious fabrics
like embroidered silks. They were decorated with a ‘guatlareto’ with the form of an open fan.

   The ‘gipo’ was made of silk or other imported fabrics. The sleeves fastened with gold or silver buttons.

  The skirt was long, full and made of colourful plain or patterned materials. The quality of the fabrics varied depending on social class.

    The long socks were white or soft tones.

    Shoes were either low heeled and lace up or low heeled ‘court’ shoes.

    Women covered themselves with a shawl made of black flannel. This was decorated with black velvet that formed a broad border. In summer, a white muslin shawl with a satin border
was worn.

    Jewellery consisted of gold buttons, chains, Maltese crosses, heirloom and rosaries.

   The man covered his head with a cotton handkerchief, and used a straw hat when working in the fields.

   They wore plain or striped cotton shirts with a low cut neck and no collar.

    The waistcoat or ‘guardapits’ was made of wool or cotton.

    The trousers were a sort of bloomer ‘calçons amb bufes’, plain or striped colours, which tied with tapes around the waist and the knee. These were also made of cotton.

   Under these trousers, others made of cotton with the same form were worn as underwear.

   The trousers were held up with a broad woollen or cotton sash.

   Like the women, in winter men wore long woollen or cotton socks.

    Shoes were made of crude kid leather. Shepherds and farmers used shoes called ‘abarcas’.

    Shepherds also wore a type of overcoat called a ‘zamarra’.

    Men covered their heads with a silk or cotton handkerchief. They also wore felt or wool hats with wide rounded brims.

    Noble men wore white shirts with a low neck and no collar.

    The waistcoat was made of silk or cotton, and fastened with double buttons.

    The trousers were also made of silk or cotton, always taking into account social class.

    The long socks were made of fine cotton for the summer, and of wool for the winter.

    Shoes were low heeled, open at the front and fastened with laces.

    In winter they wore a cape.

    This is a brief summery of Mallorcan costume, showing that social class completely influenced dress.
     In upper class town ladies there were distinctions in dress code, which was also the case in working class.
    Peasants and humble folk always tried to copy nobility, and uniformity didn’t exist.

Mulet, Antonio, El traje balear en doce láminas del siglo XVIII. Palma: 1951. 

Vilella, Cristòfol, Trajes de la isla de Mallorca. Barcelona: Imprenta Juvenil, 1989.
            ISBN 84-85354-27-2.